Vintage Ransburg Trash Can Ashtray Urn
With the weather turning wet and humid I turned to a projects I could do mostly indoors. One such project is the restoration of this vintage Ransburg Trash Can with a Sand Style Ashtray Lid. An ashtray urn I believe they're also referred to as.
That's right, I said it's made by Ransburg Corp of Indianapolis.
And no it doesn't look like the animated gif. I was just having some fun with the image. Though the Jack-o'-lantern face does look kinda cool cut into the side don't you agree..(?) 😀
This particular ashtray urn by Ransburg consists of a tin trash can painted gold inside and out, covered in Mahogany, Teak or some other type wood strips. This one has an aluminum sand ashtray lid. It's 10 inches in diameter and 20 inches tall. Volume calculations out that at 6.8 gallons, though it's probably considered a 5 gallon.
Of course, it too was left behind and didn't look that great, but I saw potential. I didn't know it was an antique, I thought they still made them today. Apparently not...
Perhaps you've heard of the Ransburg Corp of Indianapolis. Or perhaps like me, you haven't. Either way, though I'm not going to go into a full history about them, the company history is interesting.
Rather than go into the history here, if interested Michelle Stanley wrote a whole page on the subject. But here's a small snippet of the information on the Ransburg Corp from her site:
"Ransburg Pottery was started by Harper J. Ransburg, the son of an Indiana Quaker farmer, who quit school in 8th grade to work and help his family. In 1911, Ransburg moved to Ohio where he started a glass-cutting business. His line of glassware was called "The Glass of Class" and featured very intricately cut glass patterns.
Ransburg moved to Indianapolis in 1920, where The Harper J. Ransburg Co. was created. Ransburg took out a loan and expanded in to other ventures such as making candles with silver dripped around the outside. Ransburg also began working with glassware again. He created glass with colorful, raised designs called "chewing gum" glass. Another line in his glassware is called "Arte Venezia," based on Italian glass designs it has colorful gem-like pieces as part of the designs..."
And it goes on from there with the history up to date.
They did add stoneware and tins to their line of products. But was most interesting to me was to find out in reading the history of the Ransburg Corp was that they, in trying to come up with a way to limit paint over spray and paint waste, invented the electrostatic paint process and equipment. Which they still develop and produce to this day.
It has me curious at the moment if that's in fact where powder coating came from as it's the same process... Hmmh? Anyway...
In furthur research on this Ashtray urn I stumbled upon by shear accident something called "Gruvwood". What's Gruvwood? Well, I'm glad you asked because, I'm about to tell you...
According to one source:
"Gruvwood is a line of decor /accessories made by National Products of Louisville KY that consisted of American hardwood walnut accent wooden strips or squares with a "V" shaped groove between, hence the trade name Gruvwood. This line was selected by leading designers to be featured at the 1964 New York World's Fair, in the House Of Good Taste."
Most interesting about this bit of info is what Gruvwood looks like, in particular, the hamper/trash can. As you can see below, it looks pretty dang close if not exactly like the Ash Tray urn I have.
On the bottom of some, but not many of the National Products "Gruvwood" line of products they too had a bottom liner and label. Also a label stating it is made of Walnut.
The interior of the hamper/ trash can is also the same gold paint.
National Products came out with the Gruvwood line in the 1960's. They made lamps, waste baskets, hampers, trashcans etc etc. There's a gazillion things they made. And looking up Gruvwood or their company name... there's a ton of images of all kinds of things they produced in the Gruvwood line.
But there is nothing on Ransburg Corp when looking up the same. Yet it's very apparent, the ashtray I have by Ransburg is the same thing as National Products Hamper/Trash Can, with the exception of two things. The lid, one being an ashtray, the other a cover and the company labels. Possibly the material used as a bottom liner if feet are indeed on the hamper/trash can made by National Products. I say that because I have seen the hamper with out feet.
So how does Ransburg fit into the picture of National Products "Gruvwood" products I question.
Now since we know Ransburg made tins of various sizes, they came out with a new method of painting. Which I take it they used on their tins, being they're metal. And National Products produced wood products. And claims all products are produced locally using local woods.
So, was it a joint venture? Ransburg producing tins for the Gruvwood line for National Products? And finally National Products covering tins for Ransburg for the Ash tray urn?
I don't know what the tie between the two is or was. Or if there was one at all. I can'f find any info at all thus far that ties the two together. I only have the questions...
At least I know can safety presume this Ransburg Ashtray Urn must be from the same era, the 1960's or early 70's.
... so ends the history lesson. 😀
So lets take on to the restoration and repair and take a look at my ashtray urn in more detail.
First, I'll wanted to deal with the wood since that I knew what I was going to do to it after some thinking on it. Well, ...kinda.
Let's take a look at the condition it was in when it arrived in my possession.
The wood was stained from water. Whether from being outside or a leak in the storage unit, water had stained the wood as the following pics illustrate.
It looks like it could be teak not walnut. I'm still not sure which, though I'm leaning towards it being teak since I take it these were meant to be used inside and outside. But I'm not positive on what type wood it actually is. It could be something else entirely.
Water got to the wood whatever kind it is. It also got to the inside tin. At first glance, I thought it faired well. I thought it just oxidized enough to peel some paint but as it turns out, it was sightly worse.
And by the way, the above image is pretty dang close to the true color gold it is painted.
At the very bottom it showed minor signs of corrosion around the edge and it's thin in one spot about 1 1/2 to 2 inches long and maybe an inch wide. It also has a tiny hole next to one of the feet through holes.
As well, it looks like someone dropped it hard on one foot and it dented right at that particular foot. Other than that the bottom is sound and in good shape.
There's several methods one could go about in repairing the thinned area and little hole in the bottom. And I'll touch on that in a bit, for now let's look at the rest of it.
The very bottom, where the Ransburg logo is, is a very nice Masonite board. I think it's Masonite... And I say nice, because I've never seen Masonite get wet and not expand and fall apart. And this certainly got wet. Wet enough to warp it. Which brings up another factor of the tin bottom, it's domed from the edges.
As you can see by the water rings, the Masonite got pretty wet.
The outside of the tin bottom looks surprisingly nice. Paint held up beautifully!
As for the warpage of the Masonite, that should be an easy repair. I'll wet it again and press it between two boards. Then I'll coat it with a crystal clear coat Urethane to preserve the Masonite and the Ransburg label.
The four feet held a surprise for me as well. I thought they were just galvanized threads and nuts... But they weren't. The nuts were brass! Possibly painted black but I'm not sure if it was paint, or just years of dirt and oxidation. My Dremel is what I used to clean and polish them up. Including the hard rubber feet.
Here's a before and after...
All four feet are done. So that's out of the way.
The sand ashtray, which is an anodized Aluminum, has seen better days. It's dented, bent, stained and pitted. Not super bad but... I don't think I'm going to use it regardless.
These ashtray lids came in all different styles as well as materials and finishes. I've seen them before in Stainless Steel, Aluminum, Silver and Gold Chrome, and Brass. And brass or gold chrome is what I think will look best on this ashtray urn now that the wood is done. From what I recall when I was a wee lass, these type ashtrays had a fold over handle on it so you could pick up the ashtray and toss your trash in the can. I also recall seeing some with an internal plastic liner bucket that you put your bag on. I was a kid when I saw them, maybe my recollection is wrong but I thought for sure they did have these features on some of these same ashtray with this same wood exterior. Don't know for sure.. ??
So that's a look at the whole thing. Now onto restoring it. Which I opted to start with the wood.
Last week when the weather was good I took it outside and gave it an initial sanding. It have me a chance to use a new tool I picked up at the thrift store. A Bosch 1294VS Detail Sander. It's missing a couple attachments but for the most part complete. And honestly, though it may be an older model, I don't think it was ever used before. I really liked it. It was the perfect size head for sanding the flats on this project. I sanded the grooves by hand.
The result of the initial sanding was promising as you can see from the before and after pic below.
It's important to note here that my intent was not to sand it down, but to sand the surface just to get rid of most of the water spots and staining. I wanted to remove as little wood as possible. I believe I started with 120 and quickly switched to 220.
It needed more sanding of course which I would do with 320 then 400 grit for a final sanding. The grooves being a pain and I started with 220 on them.
After final sanding it's ready for finish.
And while I was at it I sanded up my bench brush, which yes, someone had abused and left behind. I prefer a horse hair brush but hey, it was free, no complaints. And I use it a lot. Including in-between coats on this urn and I'll explain why later.
As for a finish. Honestly I went back and forth on what I wanted to use. Teak Oil, True Oil, Tung Oil, Danish Oil, Varnish and yet other oils. So many choices and results to be had.
Originally I felt I wanted a hand rubbed natural look to the wood with the benifits of exterior weather protection. Which means oil based whatever...
I don't have any of the oils in hand. Locally you can't find good quality oils and I wasn't going to use box store oils. If that's what you're going to go with, you have got to use the good pure grade stuff.
I deliberated over what to use for over a week and a couple days ago I said the heck with it. I've used MinWax Spar High Gloss Urethane before many times on interiors of vessels from small to large. (Large being 180'+,v small being 40'+ vessels) If mixed right, it can produce a nice long lasting durable finish. And I had it on hand from using it on other projects. The can is pictured below so you know what it looks like when going to the store... If you want to use it.
Unlike the claim this is a "clear" finish, this is a warm tone transparent finish much like traditional varnishes, though not a traditional varnish let alone a spar varnish.
MinWax does have a crystal clear poly in both acrylic and oil base if that's what you're after as well. Which is what I'll use on the Masonite bottom to preserve the label. Essentially decoupaging the label in but preserving the Masonite. Something I need to test first so I don't ruin the Masonite. I don't know how it's going to react to the urethane. But given it faired water well, it shows promise to fair well with the finish.
Now I'm not going to tell you how to mix the finish I used. I have my own mix I use and it differs from day to day, coat to coat.
In short, between seal coats and top coats I believe I used 4 or 5 different mixes. With another change in the mix for the final coat.
I have a personal preference of products I like to use in my mixes. Products that I know how to use and how much to use given the variables to be considered, and my finishing technique. It comes with experience that's all I can say. Your mixes are in part based on how you finish, not how someone else finishes. The brush you use, the strokes you use, the speed you lay it at, the temperature, humidity blah blah blah... It all makes a difference in how it'll turn out.
I mix my own seal coat. And I have my own method of seal coating. I pay attention to the wood and how it's reacting to the seal coat and that determines how I go about sealing it. And I stop sealing it when the wood tells me to stop. You have to know what to look for and where to look. And it's not that's it's complicated, it's just hard to explain. It's easier to show and tell than just tell, for me anyway.
The wood took 3 coats of sealer or 4 ounces to be more accurate, including my bench brush, using my method of sealing coating.. which someone else taught me... Some old timer showed me. Not everyone does it this way, including the old timers. I picked the best methods from various professional or when lucky enough, Master Finishers. And do what works for me, the project, and my style or technique of finishing with XYZ product. I suggest you do the same.
Now I will say after the seal coat dried I wanted to stop right there. It was exactly the look I was looking for when I considered the finish choices and how I envisioned the look I wanted for the wood. It was freaking beautiful. Natural with just a slight hint of shine with the grain of the wood.. oh my.. just beautiful! You may or may not be able to tell from the pic below but it was real nice...
As mentioned I would have loved to have stopped at this point without adding anymore coats of finish, but I was committed in using this product at this point and you can't just leave it with a seal coat and expect any kind of endurance out of it. Which is okay, I knew what the final look would be going in, it's just going to be a different final look than this one.
Three top coats and again it's still beautiful. Just a different looking finish than above as you can see below.
Nice shine, just a hint of grain coming through, not a glass finish. Which one more coat or filling the grain from the start would've given me a glass finish. I can still take it to a glass finish but I like it where it's at at the moment.
The bench brush I wanted more a glass finish and that's what it has... Not a full blown glass finish as I'm not going to polish it out, but that it has, lacking the buffing and polishing.
And yes, all this was done with a brush. No, I didn't spray it.
Speaking of brushes.
Why do I use the bench brush after sanding and between coats? Because unlike wiping it down as others show to do after sanding first and foremost, brushing it off first will reveal the texture. And by looking at the texture you can see if and where you need more sanding.
Not only did I use the bench brush on this piece, but because it's in the furniture family of things, I also used a small horse hair shoe polishing brush to clean it further with a final brush off with.. Are you ready for this? A large blush brush. The kind girls/woman use to put blush on with... One of those. They also make for a good finishing brush depending on what product your using. More of a mop brush. Not all of these makeup brushes can handle oil or solvent based product so test before using if you plan on trying one out. After the brushing, then I wipe it down with denatured prior to seal coat, after seal coat 70/30 mix of denatured and filtered water. (Or 70% Isopropyl Alcohol if it's handy) Then tack off just prior to applying the finish.
So that's it for the wood.
Here's a tip for you...
When done cleaning your brush. Wrap it to keep the bristles aligned and formed. Like this...
If you take care of it, a good brush will last you decades, a great brush.. a lifetime. And that's not an exaggeration. That's fact. So take care of your brushes.
So now that the feet are done, the wood is done, it's had a week or so to cure; it's time to move onto the metal side of the repair. Whether I should have done this part and the painting prior to the wood, I don't know. I didn't so I'l just have to be mindful of the finish.
There is to issues to deal with on the inside, the rust and corrosion on a small area on the side of the can and the inside bottom rim. And the a small thin area and little hole in the bottom.
The side corrosion/ rust area is easy as is most of the bottom rim area. Just sand, treat and paint. The hole and thin area is another issue that has several ways it can be repaired. The hole is tiny which is a plus, the thin area not big at all, again a plus.
To fix the hole and thin area I thought of epoxy. I thought on just putting a false bottom inside after treating and painting the original bottom and not worry about the hole. One could cut out the entire bottom and solder a new one in. Or try to weld in a patch. Or... what I opted for was a method used in sheet metal work as they would in Auto repair called Leading. Which is simply tinning the area and soldering with lead or a 60/40 solder as I was planing to do to fill the area and hole.
So first things firs was to sand the corrosion and rust off. Here it is after sanding with 220 grit sandpaper. A nice clean perimeter created around the bottom edge.
Here you can see a closer view of the hole on the edge from the outside.
I also discovered it must have been dropped at one point in time landing on one of the feet as it was dented in. Not a hard fix at all.
So I was going to attempt "leading" the bottom using a 60/40 solder as mentioned. I prepped it, smeared the non lead tinning butter on and at first tried with a electronics soldering iron just to test the area. It didn't do any thing. So I switched to a butane torch, it too didn't do anything except melt the flux. So I bit the bullet and brought out the propane torch. My fear of course was burning the wood or catching it on fire as I didn't know what they might have used under the wood.
With in 5 to 10 seconds of hitting the hole area with the propane torch that thin area buckled. The tinning flux still didn't tin over. I was like WTF! Why isn't it tinning over?
So I moved to the outside and tried a small spot there with just flux and solder... nothing. The solder just wouldn't stick. It rolled off in beads.
I stopped and thought for a second... that was rust actual rust on the side... could it be that wasn't galvanization corrosion on the bottom? So I grabbed a magnet. Sure enough the side wall was tin and the magnet stuck. But the very bottom... was not magnetic. My view point now recognized it was actually aluminum corrosion, not galvanize flaking. Which also explained the lack of any red rust on the bottom.
I honestly thought the whole thing was tin. Who'd of thought they would put an aluminuim bottom on a steel/tin can..? I didn't. Still, I screwed up. I didn't verify both where tin or steel and I should have before I attempted anything. And now I had made it worse. The bottom buckled, warped where it was thin, the aluminum made more brittle due to the heat, and I burned some of the paint. Not much but a little. And I had tinning flux all over the clean ,metal, which had to be removed.
Shrinking Aluminum sheet metal is not the same procedure as shrinking steel sheet metal. You can't just heat and quench the area and have it shrink. It has to be heated in a spot and then you work the metal into that hot spot by way of pushing it with hammer strokes. Plus heating aluminum makes it brittle. As far as I know anyway.
As far as soldering the hole, in aluminum you would braze it with an aluminum brazing rod using Map gas. It needs to get hotter than just soldering. And I wasn't willing to risk it with the wood that close and being that old.
So I went with what I really didn't want to use, that being epoxy. I cleaned it all up again and put a very thin layer of very slow dry JB Weld two part epoxy.
I tried to make it as thin as I could on most areas and as smooth as I could. This particular epoxy has a 6 hr set time, plenty of working time, and a 12 to 24 hour cure time.
I have used epoxies in the past to make repairs but I don't like to use them if I don't have to. I don't find them reliable or a permanent fix and they are a bitch to sand with dissimilar hardness materials. Just a bitch to sand period actually. That said, they do make for a good sealer so I coated the side wall area thinly were it was rusted just to seal it and prevent further corrosion as well, since I was using it anyway, the entire edge perimeter of the bottom that I had prepped up.
And that is where it stands for now. I'll put a little more epoxy on the outside bottom and let it cure up before moving forward. At least that will give me a little more time to decide on the paint.
I'll update this post as I proceed further.
Thanks for stopping by.
Till next time,
Cheers...
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