Vintage Dayton Jewelers Buffing/Polishing Station

What you're looking at in the above image I believe is a Dayton Jewelers Buffing/Polishing Station. I say I "believe" it is because I don't know for sure. Since the buffer motor and blower motors are all Dayton's, I'm assuming that the whole thing is made by Dayton. But it very well may be some other manufacturer made the cabinet and used all Dayton motors. I don't know.. (?) If you know better, leave a comment. For now and until I know different for sure, I'm calling it a "Dayton."

Again this is an item left behind. The gentleman that owned it previously owned what looked to be by all accounts a rather serious watch and jewellery store that was shut down years long past. He passed away. The wife and kids came and took what they wanted from the unit. Left everything else with instructions to management to just donate and/or get rid the rest as they see fit.

Long story short, this piece was left behind and I ended up with it for helping to clean things up. IE: I worked for it. 😉

I don't know what year it's from. I'm just taking a guess that it's from the 50's, 60's or 70's. Most everything in the unit was vintage or antique. So I think it's safe to say it's at least 50 to 60 years old.

The main buffer motor is Dayton 5K600 split phase 115 volt 1/3rd hp, 3450rpm. These motors are still available today and from what I understand are primarily used for fans etc. And obviously as a buffer motor.

The two squirrel cage blowers are driven by a Dayton 2C069, 115v 92w 1.2 amp motor that runs at 1410rpm.

Both motors require 20 weight oil for lubricating the bearings as stated on the motors. Which I think is really nice that they have that information on the motor. Even how often they should be oiled.

In light of my last project, the Bialetti SS Espresso Maker; which I really could have used a full size buffer like this on; I pulled it back out today and started working on it as it's been sitting on a shelf for reasons I'll go into.

When I first picked it up I realized to restore this properly I did not want to use rattle can paint. In order to use the paint I want to use for something like this, I first need a compressor, a very quiet oil free compressor that can run a detail spray gun which for me, it's a big enough gun to handle pretty much all I want to restore or refurbish. I don't have that compressor so I felt it was foolish to start the project.

I didn't want to use it, until after I restored it. At least that was my thinking at the time.

Secondly, it takes up a rather large foot print. 32"x21" not including space behind it needed for the exhaust. I have a micro work shop. It's really too big for my current work area. And too heavy to drag up and down stairs and set up outside every time I want to use it. The reason I wanted it in the first place is to use indoors.

If you've ever used a buffing wheel before you'll understand why indoors, a vacuum dust collector is important. Bench top buffers or buffers in general are a messy tool to use. Lint from the wheels, compound, dust, etc fly everywhere. Same with using grinding and wire wheels.
So a shield and dust collector is a God send when using these type tools. And you'll see that if you haven't used one of these tools as I clean this one up. This unit has already been vacuumed out twice and there's still a bunch of crap inside of it as you'll soon see.

In talking about buffers for a moment. If you're thinking about getting one, if you can afford it, get a variable speed buffer. A variable speed buffer will offer you more versatility in the end as to what you can do with it. They are more expensive, considerably more from what I've seen for a good one.

This buffer model and the others I have, an 8", and a 6" as well as a 6" bench grinder are not variable speed. But I opted for what I could afford and before I knew the versatility a variable speed unit would give me. They're still good. They're still useable. In stating the obvious, they're just not as versatile nor give you the control you'll have with a variable speed version of the same.

As far as arbors and the styles, threaded or slip/keyed (has a flat side) style, I don't know which is best or preferred at this point. Both seem to have a variety of other adapters or spindles you can use on both. Which offers up more variety, I'm still looking into that.

Which brings up a point about variable speed buffers. Your not limited to one set speed so you're not limited to just using it as a buffer or wire wheel. You can put drum sanders on them. And even in buffing and polishing there are a variety of speeds that are best for the wheel type, the compound, or rouge type. So variable speed is the way to go if you can is my point.

Okay, enough said about all that. Back to the Dayton..

This post is not going to be about a full restore. As mentioned, I don't have the equipment to do a full restore they way I intend on this yet.

What I am thinking in light of my last project, as mentioned, is to make this usable in the mean time. And possibly make some modifications or at least point some out that I'm considering in doing so for the future. That and I'll walk you around the unit itself.
So let's get started.

First you can see there's surface rust. It's everywhere in spots but it's not that bad actually.

The first thing I did was to pull the tapered spindles off and clean them up  with a wire wheel. The left I think can be salvaged but the right not so much. A wheel was left on it and I presume it absorbed moisture which in turn rusted the spindle enough to destroy the threads in that spot. It took quite a bit of work just to get the wheel off the spindle, let alone the spindle off the arbor. The arbor is 1/2" for those curious.

I'm not that familiar with brands of tapered spindles so I don't know who makes good ones to recommend any. I do know you want quality balanced ones when you get them. If they're balanced they won't cause vibration. If you know some good brands feel free to chime in in the comments section.

Now comes the dirty deed of really cleaning it up. As mentioned, I had already vacuumed it out and I couldn't believe how much lint and dust was still in this thing.


You can see one of the three latches that hold the top on in the below picture as well as the vents. The two rear vents were almost completely clogged up with a 1/2" thick layer of lint and compound dust.

Below is a close up of one of them...

Below a shot of the interior.

The filter is pretty much shot being deformed and filled with dust and dirt. It needs changing for sure. But not an easy size to find as I discovered.

A couple more pics of the interior showing the wiring to the blowers, lights, and yes that's a single 3-prong outlet for the buffer motor. Which means I'm not limited to this motor.

Of course I had to pull the blowers out to clean the exhaust vents as well as the blowers themselves. Below are some pics I took along the way. The blower fins themselves a pain but luckily the right was fairly clean to start with. By the way, these pics only represent a small fraction of what came out of this thing.. lol it was a mess.

A toothbrush came in real handy in cleaning the squirrel cage fins.. this and more came out of the left side... A lot more!

A tip for you here. When cleaning out a squirrel cage fan, when done, turn it on before you remount it. That way it can blow all the loose stuff remaining inside out. Otherwise you'll probably have to remove it again to clean the exhaust grate again.

And here is where I am considering a couple of modifications.

Where the squirrel cages mount to the back wall I think a rubber gasket will help seal the edge.

And I noticed there was a round plate on the pull side of the squirrel cage.

Considering it took me over an hour to clean the one side, I'm thinking of putting a screen using the cover plate to hold it in place. Or some kind of filter material. I'd much rather clean the screen than the inside of the squirrel cage.

Once the exhaust was cleaned up I took to the main interior. It really looks good inside. No rust. Paints good so I probably won't have to touch this during the restoration. We'll see.

Mounted the exhaust back on... It's looking nice. On the inside... lol

Temporarily taped the wires up. A mod will be to put some type of wire clips in there.

I did my best to reshape the filter, as soiled as it was I really hated putting back in but it's all I had..

Rear exhaust ports are looking a heck of lot better...

So the interior is cleaned up, top back on.

I did a clean up of the exterior. And let's plug it up. See how it runs.

It ran smooth, the exhaust blew strong and despite the dirty filter it pulled nicely through the front ports. I was very pleased. But... The left light wouldn't come on. Dang!

But I already knew that. I was just saving that tidbit till now.

This has some old style sockets with tube lamps in them. Pretty cool actually how they come apart and mount. The right side seen below.

I had pulled the left side apart to see if I could find the problem earlier on. And see what I mean about how buffing stuff gets everywhere. All this inside and behind the socket. Talk about a fire hazard...

I could not find the problem with the light. Sometimes it came on, then would turn off. My meter showed no breaks in the line. The socket metered good. I tried switching bulbs, same thing. So I think there's a break in the wire somewhere. But I don't know at this point. It'll require more troubleshooting. For now, let's try a couple LED options.

Here's a 60 watt equivalent on the right side...

And here with the original incandescent on the right and a little battery powered magnetic 3" COB LED the left.

The daylight or white LEDs really do make a difference. So there's another mod. To add a couple COB LED strip lights to it.


As I mentioned, there's a single outlet for the motor.

And I wanted to try my other bench grinder and buffer and see how they would fit in... If they could be used with this cabinet. If so that would be great.

So I pulled the motor. And slid in my Ryobi 6" bench grinder.

It can fit but the issue is the light. And the fact it's a short body. If I move the side I'm working with over to that side of the cabinet.. then I can use it. It's really not suited for it though. But push come to shove, it can be done.

Next I tried my 6" Harbor Freight buffer. It's fine width wise but a tad high. But still, it'll work fine I think... It'll be close when spun up for sure.

Compared to the Dayton that was in it, it's really not that much taller as you can see below. But that little bit of height difference does make a difference...

The problem as I was to find out with the HF buffer, is the plug. It's the wrong style plug, I can't fit it in with the unit sitting in place. If I change it to a low profile plug like the Dayton has, it should be able to work with this cabinet.

To summarize mods and repairs needed in no particular order:

1) Needs to be repainted
2) A new power cord (the one on it though usable is quite dried out and stiff)
3) Add a rear seal to the exhaust port outlets.
4) Add an internal screen or filter to the squirrel cage fans.
5) Repair the left light (temporarily)
6) Add a separate light switch
7) Add some form of COB LED strip lights to reach side.
8) Add mounts for various buffer/grinder motors.
9) Replace the right spindle.
10) look into a dedicated variable speed buffer motor to replace all others.
11) Look into a possible dedicated wheeled stand for it.
12) Add a wrist rest on the front.
13) Add some sort of Plexi shield to protect ones face. (optional)
14) Come up with some sort of dedicated wheel and compound/rouge organization portable system.
15) Find a replacement or custom make a replacement washable internal main filter.
16) Come up with some sort of seal for the main filter for the bottom and top areas.

A lot to do on this project...

In speaking of mods, I stumbled on a page over on Marshall Hansen's website in which he has a similar rear exhaust jewelers buffing polishing station. His cabinet looks to be made of some sort of plastic, but also looks to have a Dayton motor. The below image taken from his site shows his set up.

His station in part is what has me thinking possibly the cabinet with mine is made by some other company and Dayton motors were used. With that in mind I can't say definitivly the one I have is a "Dayton" jewelers buffing station.

On Marshall's web page he goes into what he's done with his and his set up so you may want to check it out. Here's the direct link to Marshall's page on the subject:

Marshall Hansen's Design - Buffing, Polishing Station Jewelry Studio Shop...

Something I found interesting he did to his unit was to add some custom made rear exhaust filter bags. He made them from shirt sleeves and just hot glued them together and to the back of his station. Here again is a couple images from his page showing the mod.

There's more images and a full explanation on his page on this mod and how he did it and why he did it.

So that's yet another mod to consider and add to the To Do list on this project. Though I won't be hot gluing them directly to the unit if I opt to go with something like this as he did. I'll come up with some other solution to attach them. I definitely like the idea though. Nice!

That's as far as I've taken this project at this point in time. Obviously it's still a project in the works and I'll post about it again when the time comes.

But at least with a couple quick mods, parts and repairs it'll be usable for the moment until I can do the full restoration.

Thanks for stopping by...
Stay creative people.
Cheers...